I’m suffering from a lack of discipline in the sewing department at the moment. I’m not starting a project and seeing it through before starting another one. So as of this evening I have:
- a mostly (apart from the hem, and a bit of stitching of the facing) finished Crescent skirt
- a muslined but in need of some serious downsizing and flat pattern altering Beignet
- and now a fully bust adjusted Sencha, in need of a muslin
See, can’t finish one project without starting another!
Well, casting a veil over my lack of focus, this evening my project was altering the flat pattern of the Sencha top by Colette patterns. I’m probably looking in the wrong place but I couldn’t find very much in interweb land about doing a FBA on this pattern, but here’s the only one I found:
And what I did was different! Because I’m like that. And because I read the section in Fit for Real People about a billion times before doing this and trusted that their technique was the right thing to do!
So here’s my slashed, spread and pinned traced pattern piece (I get the heebie-jeebies just thinking about doing this to an original pattern!). I traced a 16 going by my high bust measurement of 43″ (the 16 is for a 44″ bust). My full bust measurement is 47.5″ so I need another 3.5″ of room in that department.
I followed the Y Full Bust Adjustment in Fit for Real People which is recommended where you need to add more than 1.5″ (I needed to add 1.75″). I also followed the instructions for a dart less, cut on sleeve bodice:
First off was removing the sleeve. There’s a tiny green mark where the bottom of the sleeve meets the bodice. I also had to make a note which was the top of the sleeve, not in the instructions, but good to know later!
I also needed to work out where my apex was and draw a line from that to somewhere along the side seam. I chose about an inch below where the sleeve joins the bodice – no particular reason, it just seemed right. When I make the muslin I’ll find out whether that was the right thing to do (I may want a steeper angle to my dart, or need to move it so that it points to my apex properly).
Now that I had a dart line I could follow the instructions for the Y adjustment.
I drew and cut a line (1) from the hem up to the apex and then continued that line at an angle to the centre of the shoulder, stopping at the seam line. I spread this apart 7/8″ between the centre front and the apex and pinned it into place.
I drew and cut a second line from the apex to halfway(ish) down where the sleeve was (1a). This was all the way to that edge but leaving a tiny bit of paper for a pivot point. I spread this apart 7/8″ from it’s starting point and then pinned so it couldn’t move either. I’ve now got 1.75″ extra room at the bust.
I cut from the side seam almost to the apex along the dart line I drew earlier, again leaving a tiny bit of paper to pivot (2). I then moved the side that’s closest to the side seam so that each side of line (1) was parallel. More pins.
I drew a final line parallel to the waist line, above the tuck marks, from centre to the gap created by (1). I then moved this part down so that the cut edges remained parallel and the bottom hem was smooth.
Next I filled all the gaps in with paper, trued the lines and created the dart ‘wings’.
I also taped the sleeve back on, truing as necessary. I hope the photo above shows you what has been added! So I’ve got another 1.75″ each side at the bust (3.5″ total), plus another 3.5″ total at the waist. This will fit, but with only 1″ ease at the waist, so I may add a little at the side seams, pivoting out from the armpit. But I’ll muslin it first with generous side seams and go from there…
The other thing to consider is the neck line. A lot of people have commented that it’s very high and can feel choking. I’ll leave it as is for the muslin and if I’m not a fan I can then mark out where I want it to be with tape and transfer that back to the pattern front and facings.
Assuming I don’t get distracted again?! I really should make a list of projects and fabric and put it somewhere I’ll keep seeing it – my sewing room door maybe…