There’s a lot of Layers in them there Shoulder Seams!

As the Minoru sew along is proceeding at quite a sedate pace I made a start on my wearable muslin of the Colette Jasmine pattern.  And I have to say I’m pleased as punch so far!

Colette Jasmine Neck Line

First up, I had a bit of a crisis when I sewed the side seams.  Basically I couldn’t see how it would ever fit, but sew them with the full 5/8″ allowance I did and (drum roll here) it fits!  A size 14 Colette pattern actually fits me (after a FBA to accommodate the girls)!  You have no idea (well, probably a bit from the over use of exclamation marks…) how happy this makes me.

So far, I’ve attached the collar (turning that the right way out is a right royal pain in the  butt) and the facing.  The inside is an unbelievable mess as I haven’t finished any of the seams.  I did overlock the edge of the facing though?!  No idea why when I haven’t finished any other raw edge…

But there are some serious layers in the shoulder seams.  You’ve got the fabric and seam allowance from the bodice (2 layers), the same times two for the collar (4 layers), and the fabric and seam allowance for the facing (2 layers).  That’s 8 layers at the shoulders!  6 at centre front and back.  I have to admit that getting the facing to stay put inside the top, even with the understitching and some heavy duty pressing is, erm, interesting.  The instructions do suggest hand stitching it to the seam allowances though which will help.  I may well have been hindered though by the fabric as whilst drapy it does have some body to it, due to the textured weave which may well exaggerate any minor issues with that aspect of the construction.

So all I need to do now is construct and insert the sleeves, an absolute first for me!  I’ll try and get some more photos once this step is done…

New Zip

As for the Minoru, I rejected the planned zip and bought another today in my lunch break that matches the one destined for the front.  But as it’s a separating one with quite chunky teeth I haven’t sewn over the ends of it, just edge stitched above and below it.  Which you can only tell if you’re about 4″ away from the collar!  I’ve also basted the completed hood to the collar as per today’s step.

They told me to pull and gather them...

I have scooted a little further along though and pinned the hooded collar to the top of the jacket and drawn up the gathering stitches…  What is it with gathering stitches that just make you want to draw them up?

Three rows

I did three rows of stitches, the seam line will be between the yellow and matching thread.  It makes the final gathers a lot more controllable.

I do love the gathering detail with this jacket though.  It’s starting to come together for me now.  I’m trying to be really good and not just keep going as I know that I’ll get a better result by staying with the sew along.


13 thoughts on “There’s a lot of Layers in them there Shoulder Seams!

    1. Thank you! I’d forgotten just how much I like the colour until I pulled it out for this. It’s a lovely sort of cornflower blue I suppose. One of those shades that works across all the seasons.

  1. The Jasmine is turning out very nicely, and your gathers on the Minoru look lovely! Interesting about the shoulder seam layers on the Jasmine, even with a lighter weight fabric that does seem like a lot! 🙂

    1. I thought it was a lot too, but I double checked the instructions and that’s how many there are! I’ve been able to get a much better finish on one shoulder than the other and I think with the final fabric it’ll be much easier as it presses incredibly well. I could always take a clapper to the shoulder seam at the neckline too to squash it down a bit.
      Thank you for the comment about the gathers, that third row of stitching really does seem to make a difference, hopefully they’ll still look as good once they’re sewn over!

  2. Jasmine is looking good! I’m having similar issues with my Rooibos. I used piping around the neckline and also lined it and basted the interfaced facings to the lining – lots of layers!

  3. Thanks for this post. The Jasmine is very near the top of my to-sew list at the moment and I didn’t realise that it had a facing. I don’t really like facings, so now i have advance notice to work out an alternative (probably bias binding instead). It’s a lovely colour.

    1. Hi Rachel

      Bias binding would work, but I don’t know how you’d secure it on the wrong side! I think you’d need to top stitch it under the collar and then hand stitch it at the front, or hand stitch it all the way around? You’ve got me thinking now…

      1. I’d sew it down by machine, and not mind about the line of stiching I think. My friend has done a sorbetto where she’s added a peter pan collar and just stitched the bias binding down by machine and it looks fine. But then I haven’t seen the proportions of the collar IRL yet so I don’t know for certain. I’d definitely machine stitch it where it’s under the collar at least.

      2. That would definitely work, there’s not a lot that isn’t under the collar, and then its covered by the ties so you’d probably be able to machine the whole lot!

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