As the Minoru sew along is proceeding at quite a sedate pace I made a start on my wearable muslin of the Colette Jasmine pattern. And I have to say I’m pleased as punch so far!
First up, I had a bit of a crisis when I sewed the side seams. Basically I couldn’t see how it would ever fit, but sew them with the full 5/8″ allowance I did and (drum roll here) it fits! A size 14 Colette pattern actually fits me (after a FBA to accommodate the girls)! You have no idea (well, probably a bit from the over use of exclamation marks…) how happy this makes me.
So far, I’ve attached the collar (turning that the right way out is a right royal pain in the butt) and the facing. The inside is an unbelievable mess as I haven’t finished any of the seams. I did overlock the edge of the facing though?! No idea why when I haven’t finished any other raw edge…
But there are some serious layers in the shoulder seams. You’ve got the fabric and seam allowance from the bodice (2 layers), the same times two for the collar (4 layers), and the fabric and seam allowance for the facing (2 layers). That’s 8 layers at the shoulders! 6 at centre front and back. I have to admit that getting the facing to stay put inside the top, even with the understitching and some heavy duty pressing is, erm, interesting. The instructions do suggest hand stitching it to the seam allowances though which will help. I may well have been hindered though by the fabric as whilst drapy it does have some body to it, due to the textured weave which may well exaggerate any minor issues with that aspect of the construction.
So all I need to do now is construct and insert the sleeves, an absolute first for me! I’ll try and get some more photos once this step is done…
As for the Minoru, I rejected the planned zip and bought another today in my lunch break that matches the one destined for the front. But as it’s a separating one with quite chunky teeth I haven’t sewn over the ends of it, just edge stitched above and below it. Which you can only tell if you’re about 4″ away from the collar! I’ve also basted the completed hood to the collar as per today’s step.
I have scooted a little further along though and pinned the hooded collar to the top of the jacket and drawn up the gathering stitches… What is it with gathering stitches that just make you want to draw them up?
I did three rows of stitches, the seam line will be between the yellow and matching thread. It makes the final gathers a lot more controllable.
I do love the gathering detail with this jacket though. It’s starting to come together for me now. I’m trying to be really good and not just keep going as I know that I’ll get a better result by staying with the sew along.