I’ve calmed down now. It’s alright. Promise. I’ve got over the rage and disappointment of my first ‘wadder’. And if I’d only thought about it a bit more at the pattern alteration stage, this wouldn’t have happened. Or if I’d toiled more than the bodice… But ‘Shoulda, Woulda, Coulda are the last words of a fool’. This isn’t a lesson I’ll forget in a hurry though:
My shirt dress is a fail. The bodice came together really well in the end. I was all set to attach the skirt when I realised that I’d just cut the skirt based on my waist size and not graded from the bodice size.
Why’s this an issue? Well, let me tell you – it is all my boobs fault. Lucky ol’ me has a generous bust which makes a FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) necessary. This means that the back of the pattern stays the same but the front increases in width to accommodate said bust.
So, when I just cut the skirt size according to my waist, this threw all the placement off. I was trying to get the CB (Centre Back) seam of the bodice at one size, to meet the CB seam of a skirt that was a size (ahem, or two) bigger. Not gonna happen. Too much skirt, not enough bodice.
The same, but in reverse was true at the front! Too much bodice and not enough skirt. All in though, the two seams are the same length, it’s just that the CB, CF and side seams would never match. I considered leaving it but that only flew for about five seconds. I knew, and still know, that those skirt seams being in the wrong place would bug me and I wouldn’t wear the dress.
What I should have done is have two skirt pattern pieces: One for the back and one for the front. The back would have been cut to the bodice pattern size. The front would have been graded to fit the front. I know this now.
Unfortunately I have no fabric spare – I had to piece the underlining for the collar, that’s how tight it got. So, I futzed it – I added some pleats to the front of the bodice and some more to the back of the skirt. Voila, all seams in the right place. I had a feeling though that I’d now thrown the fit as I’d taken between 5 & 6″ out of the waistline.
Thinking I’d chance it, I attached the bodice to the skirt and then tried the whole thing on. Yup, too small now. Not by a huge amount – I could make the seam lines on the open side seam reach but there was zero and I mean ZERO ease.
So the dress is now in my wardrobe, with the zipper on the hanger with the buttons (and I’ll add the thread in a minute…) As I’m still slowly loosing weight, I hope come late autumn I’ll have reduced in circumference sufficiently to make inserting the zipper and finishing this up a worthwhile exercise.
So there we have it. My first ‘wadder’. At least it has the potential for redemption! Onwards and upwards I guess. I’m going to have a crack at the wrap version next and you can bet that I’ll be taking care with the skirt pattern!