No 2 Past the Post: Minoru Jacket

This is my biggest project since I started sewing my own clothes:  The Minoru Jacket by Sewaholic Patterns.

I love this jacket!  I didn’t add piping as I’d planned because *looks rather sheepish* I forgot (just in case any of you were wondering where it was).

This is a substantial jacket as I made it from cotton canvas that I proofed with NikWax.  It has some heft to it, but isn’t too heavy to wear.  It’s lighter than a waxed jacket but heavier than my normal winter jacket (a ski coat).

Like others, its garnered compliments from complete strangers, which is rather flattering!  Checking the fit during the muslin stage means that I can wear it whilst driving the car and its also passed the dog walk with a toddler test.  An unexpected bonus is that pre-treating the canvas means that once mud has dried, it just brushes off.  I haven’t tested it in the rain yet – it was full on waterproofs downpours early part of last week and whilst I think this would be fine in a shower I didn’t feel up to testing in that sort of weather!

Lining Detail

The sleeves are lined with regular lining fabric so that long sleeves are a breeze when I’m wearing it.  The body is lined in cotton flannel which is sooo soft.  The side seam pockets and hood are also lined with flannel too and are lovely and cosy.  Boy likes to hide his hands in the hood and stroke the fabric if I’m carrying him.

I had a bit of a headache with the zips.  I was originally going to have plain black ones but I couldn’t find two that matched in the same gauge and that started to bug me.  Then I was in John Lewis for something and just had to pop in the haberdashery department (well, it would be rude not to) and saw reflective zips!  So I now have reflective zips on my collar and the front.  Probably quite a good idea considering how dark this fabric is and I live in a village with no streetlights…

Construction wise the most challenging bit was stitching in the ditch along the body and neck seam.  It doesn’t line up on the inside very well.  There was a lot of bulk on one side and only two layers of fabric on the other.  Thankfully it isn’t too obvious unless you’re inspecting it closely.  You want to inspect closely?!  Oh…

Can you see the wonky stitching?

When I make my summer version I will make a couple of changes in the construction though.  If I include a hood I’ll finish the seam allowances when I attach the collar to the lining and bodice before attaching the two together.  You can see the unfinished edges when you peek inside the hood pocket.  Or I may fold them into the body of the jacket instead, but that may feel a bit odd around the shoulders.  I’ll also be sure to finish every seam before topstitching for my own satisfaction more than anything else!

I will also buy three reels of thread.  I bought two for this version and only used a regular stitch for the topstitching and there was literally just a foot left on the spool at the end and the bobbin had just run out.

I’m really pleased with the fit although I need to reduce some of the ease in the waist as I’ve lost weight since fitting this and its now got too much ease there – I’ll have to futz with the elastic channel to cinch it in a bit, but it’s a good reason to have to futz really!

Adjustments made for this version:
FBA
Shortened the torso
Shortened the sleeves
Changed the hood construction to include a lining

Adjustments for future versions:
Reduce flare from waist
Reduce ease at waist
Alter construction regarding collar
Seam finish all seams before topstitching
Omit internal pockets
Add welt pockets instead of in-seam ones?

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27 thoughts on “No 2 Past the Post: Minoru Jacket

  1. you’ve done a great job, it looks really good! and thanks for sharing your detailed thoughts on construction and your future modifications. It will be very helpul as I’m about to start the muslin!

    • Thank you! And your welcome – I’ve benefited a lot from people sharing their thoughts on a pattern they’ve made so I’m glad to be able to help a little…

  2. Looks awesome :) I’m ashamed to admit mine is still a work in progress, but I’m looking forward to showing it off in the not too distant future (hopefully!!)

  3. It looks brilliant! I love the contrast of the lining and the fact that it’s so cosy and warm inside. Well done!!! Agree on finishing the collar seam – that was an unexpected annoyance that I certainly would have taken the time to finish had I realised in advance!

  4. You are quite a success – just look at you go! This jacket looks marvelous, and it’s only right that you should receive compliments from strangers when wearing this. I can’t believe you already have plans to make a summer version.

    • My plans may be misguided as they were made on a beautiful, perfect spring day! It’s grey, dull and chilly again today, so another one isn’t quite imminent! My Renfrew fabric is pre-washing at the moment and I hope to trace and do the flat pattern adjustments this evening… I think that will be next and then maybe another skirt…

    • You must hem it! I don’t mind hemming, probably because I’m so close to the finish line! If some hand stitching is involved I quite enjoy it as I can sit on the sofa with Husband whilst I sew and he watches TV!

  5. Well done! It looks so good on you. I’m so impressed that you that extra step and treated it. Did you seal the stitching as well? I have been thinking about making the Minoru but I’d like it to be waterproof too.

    I guess I am stuck wondering, is it a pricey project by going the waterproof route?

    • I didn’t waterproof the seams as I don’t think it’ll be 100% waterproof, but should withstand a shower! Expense wise, a waterproof version could be done quite reasonably, depending on what sort of fabric you choose… Goretex is more expensive than other waterproof fabrics, but it doesn’t rustle and is more substantial so I’d probably go that route! As ever, it can end up being as expensive, or not, as you choose!

  6. Wow, nice job! I love that you used flannel for the lining, it’s pretty and looks SOOO cosy… I’d probably be tempted to wear it to bed LOL.

    Making a jacket still seems like climbing Mt Everest to me, especially since I’m still learning the most basic things…. like zipper installation, and how to tame sleeve facings LOL… but I’m looking forward to conquering that mountain sometime this year!! :D

    • It really is quite straight forward! Especially as you don’t have to set in the sleeves, plus Tasia’s posts will help you out a lot…
      The flannel is gorgeous, your comment about wearing it to bed has reminded me that I have some star printed turquoise and teal flannel for a cinnamon…

  7. I *love* this coat!! You’ve made some really great fabric choices here, and I’m so very much going to borrow your idea to wax the fabric and use reflective zippers. I had no idea that reflective zippers even existed! I’m going to get in touch with you on PM to ask about your reflective zipper source – I looked on the JL website and then searched the rest of the internet for a half hour before realising that I probably won’t be able to find them easily.

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