Nautical Shirt Dress – Progress

Hello!  Sorry for the radio silence, this week has again been kinda nuts.  Several long days at the County Show, book keeping for Mr, vehicle crisis’ (or whatever the plural of crisis is – flippin’ Land Rover!) and general life has kept me from this here blog.  Fortunately for my sanity it hasn’t kept me from my sewing machine!

I don’t know if you’re aware of Sunni’s two in one sew along she’s hosting over at A Fashionable Stitch?  I’m taking part but decided to mess with the pattern to make my ideal shirt dress.

Simplicity 1880
Simplicity 2246

I’ve taken the suggested pattern Simplicity 1880 and mashed it with Simplicity 2246 – the Lisette Traveller dress.

I knew I wanted a shirt dress as soon as I saw Scruffy Badger’s red elephants version, which is a slightly tweaked 2246.  It’s such a great shape and could be a great wardrobe staple.  But, the Lisette dress isn’t my perfect shirt dress.  I wanted a faux shirt waist – one where the buttons don’t go all the way to the hem.  A lot like the 1880.  But that wasn’t perfect either!

Here’s a sketch of what I wanted:

My ‘Perfect’ Shirt Dress

A fitted bodice with bust and waist darts. A notched collar, with a skirt that’s fitted at the waist line and not gathered.  Originally I was going to use the sleeves from Mary’s Dress but when I muslined the ones from 1880 I really liked them.

So, I’ve taken the bodice from 2246, added the collar extension from 1880 and also the sleeves.  I’ve also used the 1880 skirt as it’s not gathered and there’s no buttons.  I guess it’s about a 50/50 split of elements from the two patterns.

What with combining the patterns, the FBA and muslin to make sure it all fit and then re-angling and re-positioning the darts, I started construction last weekend.  It’s not going to be the fastest thing I’ve ever made as I haven’t sewn that much recently and I’m just taking it easy.  I am really pleased with how it’s going though.

Dusky navy broderie anglaise underlined with red acetate lining.  Yum!  Dibs is currently doing something similar (although she hasn’t told us what yet) with black broderie anglaise and yellow!

Skirt hanging to let the bias settle

So far the skirt is done, the bodice darts are all sewn and the front and back are attached at the shoulders.  I’ve also sewn the pleats in the sleeves.  I’m using french seams in the main, although the neckline and left seam will be finished with purple bias binding or tonal seam tape.

Tonal or Purple?

I’d originally intended it to be self made bias from the lining fabric but I only just had enough to get all the pieces out and had to piece the underlining of the collar pieces…  I’m erring towards the seam binding though at the moment!

I hope I’ll get this done by the weekend, but we’ll have to see how it goes I guess!  I’ll do the collar the tailoring way, buy sandwiching it between the bodice and facings (which I think is the same method Sunni has planned) and I’ll also go for a lapped zipper – probably following Casey’s tutorial from her Swing Dress Sew Along.

What are you all up to?

10 thoughts on “Nautical Shirt Dress – Progress

    1. That’s a gorgeous dress! I know Casey at elegantmusings has done some posts on grading recently so most patterns are within reach now!

  1. your combination looks really yum. I have the simplicity pattern being used on Sunni’s sew-along, but I don’t know if I will be able to sew along with everyone else. Too much going on right now. I might have to copy you and use red lining for a white eyelet I have.

    1. That sounds a brilliant combination! Raspberry ripple just popped into my mind picturing it… I can imagine that there’s a LOT going on chez Dibs!

  2. How cute! This dress is going to be perfect! I don’t have the time to make a shirtdress right now, so I’m going to live vicariously through you lovely ladies!

  3. Sounds like good progress. Your sketch is the perfect dress, I wanted notched collar too, and my next one Will include one too..Hoorah for you that you’re frankenpatterning and your fabric choice Will be so pretty

  4. Your sketch really looks like the perfect shirt dress! I’m currently trying to self-draft something similar, although buttoned all the way down… The navy broderie anglaise looks so lovely, too! Can’t wait to see your finished project!

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